Guide Nº 12 — Straps & Bracelets

The strap glossary,A to Z

LIVE THE WATCHLIFE · REFERENCE EDITION · GUIDE Nº12
The short answer

This glossary defines the terms used to describe watch straps, bracelets and their parts, each in one or two lines. Every term has its own link, so you can share or bookmark a single definition.

Term Meaning
Bombé A padded strap with a raised, rounded centre. Read the guide
Bonded leather Leather scraps shredded and glued to a backing; the lowest grade. Read the guide
Buckle end The narrow end of a strap, where the buckle sits.
Bund strap A strap with a wide leather pad under the watch, from mid-century German military pilot gear. Read the guide
Burnished edge An edge sealed by sanding and friction-polishing, often with wax. Read the guide
Butterfly clasp A symmetrical folding clasp that opens from the centre, released by push buttons. Read the guide
Chrome tanning Tanning with chromium salts; fast, soft and water-resistant. The most common method. Read the guide
Combination tanning Chrome tanning followed by a vegetable re-tan. Read the guide
Curved end A strap end shaped to follow one particular case's curve. Read the guide
Deployant clasp A hinged metal clasp that folds shut; the strap length is set once. Read the guide
Drilled lugs Lugs with holes through the outside, so spring bars can be pushed out from outside. Read the guide
Edge paint Coloured coating applied in layers to seal a strap's cut edge. Read the guide
FKM Fluoroelastomer rubber; dense, durable and resistant to oils, UV and dust. Read the guide
Fixed keeper A loop stitched or fused in place near the buckle. Read the guide
Floating keeper A loop that slides along the strap to hold the tail. Read the guide
Folded (turned) edge An edge where the top leather wraps around and is glued underneath. Read the guide
Full-grain Leather with its natural outer surface intact; the strongest grade. Read the guide
G10 Another name for the NATO strap, from the British military supply form used to request it.
"Genuine leather" A marketing term meaning real leather, usually of a lower grade. Read the guide
Integrated bracelet A bracelet or strap that flows directly from a case with no conventional lugs. Read the guide
Jubilee-style bracelet A five-link bracelet; the original appeared on the Rolex Datejust in 1945. Read the guide
Keeper A loop that holds the strap's tail in place. Read the guide
Lining The underside layer of a strap that touches the skin.
Long side / short side The holes half and the buckle half of a two-piece strap. Read the guide
Lug One of the four horns on a watch case that hold the spring bars. Read the guide
Lug width The distance between the inner faces of a pair of lugs, in millimetres. Read the guide
LWG Leather Working Group; audits and rates tanneries on environmental practice (Gold, Silver, Bronze, Audited). Read the guide
Micro-adjustment Extra closely spaced holes, half-links or clasp positions for an in-between fit. Read the guide
Milanese A woven metal mesh bracelet, often with a sliding clasp. Read the guide
NATO strap A one-piece nylon pass-through strap with an extra flap under the case; from a 1973 British MoD specification. Read the guide
Nubuck Grain-side leather lightly sanded for a fine, velvety feel. Read the guide
Oyster-style bracelet A three-link bracelet with broad flat links. Read the guide
Pass-through strap Any strap that threads under the watch through both spring bars. Read the guide
Patina The darkening and character leather develops with wear and light. Read the guide
Perlon A tightly woven nylon strap that can be fastened at any point along its length.
President-style bracelet A three-link bracelet with rounded links; the original appeared on the Rolex Day-Date in 1956. Read the guide
PVD Physical vapour deposition; a hard, thin coating used to colour steel buckles. Read the guide
Quick-release pin A spring bar with a small lever for tool-free strap changes. Read the guide
Rally strap A strap with large round perforations, inspired by 1960s motorsport. Read the guide
Saddle stitch A hand stitch with two needles; it won't unravel if one stitch breaks. Read the guide
Shoulder (flange) The ridge near a spring bar tip that a tool grips. Read the guide
Single-pass A pass-through strap without the NATO's extra flap; sits lower. Read the guide
Skiving Thinning leather edges so layers join without bulk. Read the guide
Spring bar The spring-loaded rod that holds a strap between the lugs. Read the guide
Straight end A flat strap end that fits any watch with the right lug width. Read the guide
Suede Leather brushed on the inner side for a soft nap. Read the guide
Tang buckle The classic pin-and-frame buckle that threads through the strap's holes. Read the guide
Taper How much a strap narrows from lug end to buckle end, e.g. 20/18 mm. Read the guide
Top-grain Top-layer leather that has been sanded and refinished. Read the guide
Tropic strap A basket-weave rubber strap from 1960s dive watches. Read the guide
Vegetable tanning Tanning with plant tannins; slow, firm, ages with a rich patina. Read the guide
Zulu strap A heavier pass-through strap with thicker weave and round hardware.

Keep reading: Watch straps, the complete guide · Strap taper, explained · Lug width, and why 1 mm matters